Well, for my friend the Grand Canyon newbie (and our cherished admin) here is a decision tree.
Constraints - coming from George with only two nights available, traveling by land and not by sea:
- Have to limit yourself to the north rim only - the south rim is too far away because, well, the Grand Canyon is in the way and it takes a LONG time to drive around.
Where on the north rim for first visit?
- the drive to Toroweap from Mesquite through the Grand Canyon Parashant N.M. from Mesquite (not far from George) is backcountry and fun and ends at Toroweap but takes too much time
- the drive to Toroweap and camping there is really, really great and should not be missed. The personality is different at this level than the next plateau level up and the one above that where the NFS and park north rim headquarters are locate. It is the most vertical down to the river of anywhere in the ditch I have been. Really spectacular. There is a a great but tough route down to the river right at Lava Falls that the NPS tries to dissuade you to walk. There is a great Esplanade walk from near the campground level to the east. I've walked three days out and back along it scouting a future route. I believe the campground is no longer first come first serve and I don't know if you can reserve it online.
- the drive to Toroweap is a well known tire eater so plan on flats. I've triple flatted on it before.
- from this road to Toroweap there are several roads up, to the east, to the next plateau level where a years old struggle between the NPS, conservationists, miners and poachers has been going on. Some of the roads up there go into the Park on very difficult roads that are not maintained but end at overlooks of the Canyon that are to die for. I've soloed out there and would expect you with your 4WD experience and precautions you could to. You need a good map and a permit to camp out there. You can get these on the phone and then pick them up at the BLM office in George or that little national monument you hit on the way to Kanab from George (Pipe Springs or somesuch)
- the third level up is accessed from the pavement from the north or a dirt road in NFS land on the west side which is good. The pavement goes into the park. The dirt road access rim ending dirt roads that stay on NFS land and also some terminate in the park. You can camp informally out there. There may be other people out there as well. Some of the rim car camp spots don't have an actual view like the one above but with a 2 minute walk could.
Hiking? Well go into the park on the pavement, stay at the lodge on the rim, which isn't as cool as the lodges on the south rim but is spectacular nonetheless. Than walk down the main trail right (bright angel?) into the canyon - it is heavily engineered but way worth doing - at least several times. I've walked to the south rim from there and back - if you are feeling strong. Or better yet, follow Davey Crockett's lead and run it as a double crossing in a few hours. It is only 23 miles and 11,000' of vert AND upside down
Hope this helps... I'll try and verify the place names a little when I get a chance - this is all from memory.
You HAVE to see below the rim (my favorite) and the south rim. I believe this teaser trip will motivate you to return to do just that.
